Slide show given on Alumnae Reunion, June 14, 2007

 

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR REUNION WEEKEND

 

JAMBO (Hello)       KARIBU!   (Welcome!)

 

ASANTE SANA   (Thank you, very much)

When I resigned in the Spring of 2006, after 38 years of teaching art at Dana Hall, my colleagues selected me to go on a safari for two in Tanzania.

The safari was an amazing experience; and for me, who barely travels outside the immediate comfort-zone of my neighborhood, it was truly an adventure of a life-time. I AM VERY GRATEFUL to EVERYONE who made this possible:

To my friends and colleagues at Dana Hall
I appreciate their support, encouragement and good cheer!
I returned despite their warnings of raging rhinos and tsetse flies!!

Thank you to SARAH RUEPPEL, Class of 1983, and her husband PETER MONACO (mon a co) who had the winning bid on the Thomson Safari at the Dana Hall 125 Celebration Auction and for their generous gift of offering the Safari (with air-fare) to a member of the Dana Hall faculty.
As the recipient of their gift I am extremely grateful!

Special thanks to JUDI WINELAND & RICK THOMSON of Thomson Safari in Watertown for donating the safari to the Auction and especially for introducing me and my traveling companion, Roberta, to the cultures and wild-life Tanzania!
If you are going on a safari, Thomson's is defiantly the way to go!!

Their incredible attention to details in all aspects of the safari was awesome.. planning, guides, camps, food (especially the daily soups_, etc.

Asanta Sana to the Thomson Safari Watertown staff members:
• Ina for positioning me in the right direction
• Michael for arranging the details and addressing our endless questions.

Asanta Sana to Thomson employees and Nyumba camp staff in Tanzania
• the latter, playfully addressed my as "BABU" (reverend elder in Swahili)
• especially to our safari guides, Ojukwu & Mohamed

Ojukwu Sirikwa (of Maasai origin and our lead guide) and Mohamed Mbaruku (a muslim from Tanga) were easy-going and extremely knowledgeable about the mammals, birds and fauna we viewed.
Ojukwu - an expert on the oral history of the Massai - spoke freely about the local tribes and the political and social conditions in Tanzania - sometime not very flattering when it came to his fellow Massai.
Mohamed was more spontaneous and had a great sense of humor...

 

INTRODUCTION

July 8th, 2007. After 11 eventful days in Tanzania (plus 2 additional days in flight), my companions (Roberta Paul and Keith Cohen) and I reluctantly returned to a hot and humid Boston.

It had been winter in The United Republic of Tanzania - located below the Equator in Eastern Africa between longitude 29o and 41o East, Latitude 1o and 12o South.

Elevation: highest: Mt. Kilimanjaro and lowest Indian Ocean

• Tanzania is one of the poorest countries in Africa.
    Although the standard of living is very poor
    I met many Tanzanians who were extremely hospitable.

Population: 35,922,454

Language:
    Swahili and some English is official language
    English is generally used in business & secondary schools.

Ethnic groups
    • mainland: 99% native African
      of which 95% are Bantu consisting of more than 130 tribes.
      1% consisting of Asian, European, and Arab.
    • Zanzibar: Arab, native African, mixed Arab/native African

Religions
    • mainland: Christian 30%, Muslim 35%, indigenous beliefs 35%
    • Zanzibar: more than 99% Muslim

Curency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh) - about US$1 = TSh 1,120

Background: German period 1887-1916, British period 1916-1961

Tanzania became independent in 1961 and the island of Zanzibar, became independent in 1963, and a year later the two nations joined forces, becoming the United Republic of Tanzania. On October 29, 1995, Tanzania held its first democratic elections...

 

In preparation for the trip I read:

"The White Nile" by Alan Moorehead, 1960
    - An extremely well written and a lively history of the Victorian search for the source of the Nile.
    - An interesting history of early exploration in Africa - focusing on the period of 1856-1899.
    - the story of European discovery, conquest, and colonization of the Nile region.
    - well-crafted prose. . .


Wildlife and fauna guides of Tanzania & East Africa

• I read on the plane flight and during safari:

   "Out of Africa" the 1937 memoir by Isak Dinesen.

 

RESERVE AND GAME PARKS we visited:

  • Tarangire National Park   (2 nights at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba campsite)
    Tarangire National Park is 1,005 sq miles - noted for vast amounts of baobab and acaacia trees, and a wide variety of wild-life; elephants, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, ostrich, and numerous birds.

  • Gibb's Farm   (1 night)

  • Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Ngorongoro Crater
    (2 nights at Thomson Ngorongoro Nyumba campsite on rim of Ngorongoro Crater)
    Ngorongoro Crater - often referred as "Africa's Garden of Eden' - is 12 miles wide, approximately 2,000 feet deep, and covering an area of 102 square miles - mountain forests, lush vegetation, and fresh springs surround the rim of the crater's towering walls, which top out at an elevation of 7,500 feet. The largest intact volcanic crater on earth, it hosts an estimated 30,000 animals on its floor, including large herds of zebra and wildebeest, buffalo, eland, hartebeest, elephant, hippo, lions, flamingoes, and the endangered black rhino.

  • Serengeti National Park
    • 2 nights at Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Robanda
       in central Serengeti
    • 2 nights at Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria
       in north-western Serengeti

    "Serengeti" in the Maasai language means "endless plains."
    The 5,700 sq. mile expanse of grasslands and forests
    ... as large as the state of Connecticut
    Scattered with kopies, herds of wildebeest, zebra and elephants,
    and a great variety of wildlife, including lions and cheetahs.
    Famous for the annual migration of wildebeests and zebras.

     

    WILD-LIFE

    In terms of viewing wildlife, we were very fortunate...

    We saw Africa's

    1. BIG FIVE   term originally coined by hunters who wanted trophies from their safaris
      • ELEPHANTS   ('Tembo' in Swahili)
      • LIONS   ('Simba')
      • LEOPARDS   ('Chui')
      • BLACK RHINOCEROS   ('Kifaru')
           and
      • CAPE WATER WATERBUFFALOS   ('Nyati').

    2. PLUS FOUR:
      • CHEETAHS   (Duma)
      • MAASAI GIRAFFE   (Twiga)
      • HIPPOPOTAMUS   (Kiboko)
           and
      • ZEBRA   (Punda Milia)

        Zebra and wildebeest herds often travel and graze together. They have a symbiotic relationship caused by an increased chance of predator detection.

        • Zebras graze on long grasses.
           Wildebeest graze on the short grasses.

        • Wildebeest have poor eye sight
           and are not adept at defending themselves.
           Zebra, have excellent eyesight
           and can kick and bite ferociously.

        •No two zebras have the exact same pattern of stripes

    3. Other Mammals:
      Antelopes (Swala in Swahili) • Olive Baboons • Kirk's Dik Diks • Gazelle (Swala): Grant's Gazelle & Thomson's Gazelle • Cokes Harebeest • Hyena (Fisi) • Rock Hyrax & Tree Hyrax (the closest genetic relatives to elephants!) • Impalas • Jackals • Klipspringers • Beisa Oryx • Topi • Vervet Monkeys aka Blue-ball Monkey • Wart Hogs • Waterbuck • Wildebeest • and others. . .

    4. Reptiles:
      a dead Forest Cobra • Nile Crocodiles (Mamba) • Common Household Geckos • Agama Lizards • a Leopard Tortoise • and an unidentified frog (maybe the Sharp Nosed Grass Frog) which lived on the lid of my portable Nyumbia toilet.
      Thankfully we did not encounter any Black Mamba!!.

    5. Hundreds of birds:
      Red and Yellow Barbet • many types of Bee-eaters • Kori Bustards • Grey-crowned Cranes • Diederik Cuckoo • Eagles • Egrets • Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Finch • Greater Flamingos • Egyptian Geese • Helmeted Guinea-fowl • Herons • Von der Decken's Hornbill & Red-billed hornbill • Sacred Ibis • Blacksmith Plover • Lilac-Breasted Roller • Secretary Birds • Shrikes • Superb Starlings< • Marabou Stock & Yellow-billed Stocks • Swallows • Vultures • Weavers: Parasitic Weaver (aka >Cuckoo Finch)...

    6. insects:
      Fire ants • Termite mounds • Tsetse Flies - etc.
      sadly no Dungbeetles (Onthophagus rangifer males from Tanzania was one creature I most wanted to observe in his natural environment)

    7. Camera: I took pictures with a Sony A100 Digital Camera with a 18.mm - 200mm Zoom using the "automatic" mode - because I lost the instruction manual on the first night in Tanzania!

      My traveling companion, Roberta drew in her sketchbook, which is online at: http://home.comcast.net/~rtcee2/safari/safari_home.html

      My Safari website is at: http://www.donstinson.com/scatt/popups/safari.html

     

     

    ITINERARY:

    • DAY 1: Tuesday, June 26, 2007

      7:30 PM (local time)
      depart Logan Airport, Boston on NorthWest Airlines.

    • DAY 2: Wednesday, June 27

      7:40 AM (local time) (1:40 AM Boston time)
      arrived at Amsterdam International Airport.

      10:55 AM (local time) (4:55 AM Boston time)
      depart Amsterdam on KLM Airlines for Arusha, Tanazania

      7:50 PM (local time) (12:45 PM Boston time)
      arrive at Kilimanjaro Airport, south-east of Arusha.

      TOTAL: 17 hours 55 minutes (Boston to Arusha)

      9:30 PM Arrive by bus at Mountain Village Lodge
      spend overnight at this former coffee plantation.

      DAY 3 - Thursday June 28.

      Mountain Village Lodge, south-east of Arusha
      Cultural Heritage Center, (tourist shop) outside Arusha.
      Tarangire National Park
         JAMBO, JAMBO, ("Hello "in Swahili) the wake-up call
         hot towels before eating
         homemade soups and breads, fresh fruits.
         mention honeymooners from West Newton!!...

      7:00 AM Breakfast. Met our Thomson guides, Ojukwu and Mohamed, and other members of the safari we did not met the night before.

      Orientation meeting; then packed Land Rovers and left the lodge.

      Drove through outskirts of Arusha and stop at Cultural Heritage Center.

      Drove to west of Arusha then south - through Maasai Steppe to entrance of Tarangire National Park where we had box lunch and viewed our first wild-life (Zebera)

      Spent two overnights at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba and two days viewing wildlife in the 1,005 sq miles park noted for vast amounts of baobab trees, and a wide variety of wild-life - especially elephants and numerous birds.

      DAY 4 - Friday, June 29.

      2nd day of wild-life viewing at Tarangire National Park.

      DAY 5 - Saturday, June 30.

      leave Tarangire National Park.
      drive through Mto-wa-Mbu (mosquite creek).
      visit Zebra Handcrapts (curio market)
      arrive at Gibb's Farm.

      Left Tarangire Park and drove through the village of Mto Wa Mbu (meaning mosquito creek) halfway between Arusha and the Ngorongoro Crater.

      Stopped at Zebra Handicrafts, a curio market, where we purchased East African carvings and various tourist items. I purchased a Maasai Ol-lenywa fan (fly-swatter) and a few other things.

      Continued on to Gibb's Farm - a small-scale working coffee plantation with organic gardens and solar heated water.

      After lunch toured organic vegetable gardens with guide, Honest, and met artist-in-residence Riziki Kateya.

      Spent overnight at the farm in a cozy cottage surrounded by lush herb and flower gardens.

      DAY 6 - Sunday, July 1.

      Tour Gibb's Frarm rain forest, waterfall,
         and coffee plantation.
      Visit Ganako Secondary School, Karatu
      Enter Ngorongoro Cerservation Area.
      Afternoon of wild-life viewing on floor of Ngorongoro Crater.

      Left Gibb's Farm after a buffet breakfast (with Rick Thomson) and guided walk with Honest through the forest to waterfall, and coffee plantings, surrounding the farm.

      Stopped briefly to meet Hubert Mmbaga, Assistant Principle at the Ganako Secondary School, near the village of Karatu.

      Travelled on to entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (8,300 sq. kilometer area of geological and historical importance) and then on to Thomson Ngorongoro Nyumba set in dense acacia woodland on the Northern rim of the Ngorongoro Crater wall.

      Ngorongoro Crater - often referred as "Africa's Garden of Eden'
      12 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and covering an area of 102 square miles of mountain forests, lush vegetation, and fresh springs surround the rim of the crater's towering walls, which top out at an elevation of 7,500 feet.
      The largest intact volcanic crater on earth, it hosts an estimated 30,000 animals on its floor, including large herds of zebra and wildebeest, buffalo, eland, hartebeest, elephant, hippo, lions, flamingoes, and the endangered black rhino.

      Spent two chilly overnights at Ngorongoro Nyumba - with hot water bottles to warm our beds.

      During the days we desended 2000 feet below our campsite onto the crater floor to view a variety of wildlife.

      DAY 7 - Monday, July 2.

      2nd day of wild-lilfe viewing on Ngorongoro Crater floor.
      Visit traditional Maasai boma (village or homestead)

      On the afternoon of our last day we visited a traditional Maasai Boma near the crater's edge. The Masai still build their homes the traditional way using cow dung and mud over a frame of sticks. They are very dark inside (only one small round window) and are sunk into the ground. Beds are made of leather cowhide.
      Mention about the ripped $5 bill...

      DAY 8 - Tuesday, July 3.

      Leave Ngorongoro campsite - heavy fog
      Stop at Michael Crzimek mounument
      Decent into Malanja Deppression of the Great Rift Valley
      Visit Olduvai Gorge (Leakey site and museum)
      View wild-life on souther serengeti (Kopjies)

      Left Ngorongoro campsite, on a cool and very foggy morning, for Serengeti National Park via the southern edge of the crater's circumference.

      Stopped briefly at monument to Michael Grzimek (killed in a plane accident in Ngorongoro in 1959) - who with his his father, the German professor, Bernhard Grzime, contributed greatly in promoting the nature of Northern Tanzania.

      Descended into the Malanja depression and came out onto the open plains of The Great Rift Valley.

      Stopped at Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey discovered numerous types of the fossil remains of early man.

      Drove on to the south-eastern entrance of the Serengeti National Park.

      "Serengeti" in the Maasai language means "endless plains."
      The 5,700 sq. mile expanse of grasslands and forests
      as large as the state of Connecticut
      Scattered with kopies, herds of wildebeest, zebra and elephants,
      and a great variety of wildlife, including lions and cheetahs.
      Famous for the annual migration of wildebeests and zebras.
      We spent two overnights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Robanda

      DAY 9 - Wednesday July 4

      Full day of wild-life viewing on southern
         and central areas of Serengeti:
          • Hippo Pool
          • Lunch at Seronera Visitor Center in Central Serengeti.

      DAY 10 - Thursday July 5

      Leave Nyumba at Robanda; Stop for fuel at filling station in Mugumu
      Travel to north-western gate of Serengeti Park.
      Wild-life viewing in northern Serengeti near Kenya.
      Cross Mara River.
      Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria.

      Drove northwest outside Serengeti National Park.

      Stopped for fuel at the Panju Marwa Fiilling Station in Mugumu.

      Spent two nights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria and two days exploring the northwestern plains of the Serengeti Park.

      DAY 11 - Friday, July 6.

      2nd day of wild-life viewing on northern Serengeti
        • cross Mara River
        • off-trail wild-life viewing and lunch with lions.
        • visit border of Tanzania and Kenya.

      DAY 12 - Saturday, July 7.

      Leave Thomson Nyumba at Kogakuria
      Airplane ride to Arusha Airport.
      En route, pick up injured boy and his mother
      Lunch at Cultural Heritage Center in Arusha
      Relax at KIA Lodge at Kilimanjaro Airport, east of Arusha
      Flight to Amsterdam International Airport

      After breakfast we packed our bags and headed for the dirt and grass airstrip on the Serengeti for our flight to Arusha in a small 13 seat plane.

      We said good-byes and thanks to Ojukwu and Mohamed who were making the journey back in the Land Rovers.

      After lunch at the Cultural Heritage Center, and a stop at The Mountain Village lodge outside of Arusha, we rode to KIA Lodge at the Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha to decompress and eat before our evening flight to Amsterdam - via a brief stopover at Dar Es Salaam (on coast of Tanzania, south of Zanzibar).

      DAY 13 - Sunday, July 8

      Arrive at Amsterdam International Airport
      Goodbyes to fellow safari travelers
      4:30 PM (Boston time)
         Arrive at Logan Airport, Boston, MA, USA

      38 hourse since leaving norht Serengeti airfield

      Arrived at Amsterdam Airport; said goodbye to fellow safari travelers, eat once again!, then made our connecting flights home.

      4:30 PM (Boston time) arrived at Logan Airport, Boston exhausted.
      it had been 38 hours since we left the airfield in northern Serengeti
      but extremely happy with our safari experience in Tanzania.

       

      Tutaonana (We'll see each other again)

       

       

      Days 6-7: Sunday/Monday, July 1-2.
      Left Gibb's Farm after a buffet breakfast (with Rick Thomson) and guided walk through the forest to waterfall, and coffee plantings, surrounding the farm.
      Stopped briefly to meet Hubert Mmbaga, Assistant Principle at the Ganako Secondary School, near the village of Karatu.
      Travelled on to entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (8,300 sq. kilometer area of geological and historical importance) and then on to the Thomson Ngorongoro Nyumba (nyumba staff) set in dense acacia woodland on the Northern rim of the Ngorongoro Crater wall.
      Ngorongoro Crater - often referred as "Africa's Garden of Eden' - is 12 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and covering an area of 102 square miles - mountain forests, lush vegetation, and fresh springs surround the rim of the crater's towering walls, which top out at an elevation of 7,500 feet. The largest intact volcanic crater on earth, it hosts an estimated 30,000 animals on its floor, including large herds of zebra and wildebeest, buffalo, eland, hartebeest, elephant, hippo, lions, flamingoes, and the endangered black rhino.
      Spent two chilly overnights at Ngorongoro Nyumba - with hot water bottles to warm our beds.
      During the days we desended 2000 feet below our campsite onto the crater floor to view a variety of wildlife.
      On the afternoon of our last day we visited a traditional Maasai Boma (2) near the crater's edge. The Masai still build their homes the traditional way using cow dung and mud over a frame of sticks. They are very dark inside (only one small round window) and are sunk into the ground. Beds are made of leather cowhide.

      Days 8-9: Tuesday/Wednesday, July 3-4.
      Left Ngorongoro campsite, on a cool and very foggy morning, for Serengeti National Park via the southern edge of the crater's circumference.
      Stopped briefly at monument to Michael Grzimek (killed in a plane accident in Ngorongoro in 1959) - who with his his father, the German professor, Bernhard Grzime, contributed greatly in promoting the nature of Northern Tanzania.
      Descended into the Malanja depression and came out onto the open plains of he Riff Valley.
      Stopped at Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey discovered numerous types of the fossil remains of early man.
      Drove on to the eastern entrance of the Serengeti National Park.
      Serengeti in the Maasai language means "endless plains." The 4,763 sq. kilometer expanse of grasslands and forests - nearly as large as the state of Connecticut - was scattered with kopies, herds of wildebeest, zebra and elephants, and a great variety of wildlife, including lions and cheetahs.
      We spent two overnights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Robanda [view from air | nyumba staff]

      Days 10-11: Thursday/Friday, July 5-6.
      Drove northwest outside Serengeti National Park.
      Stopped for fuel at the Panju Marwa Fiilling Station in Mugumu (map).
      Spent two nights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyuumba at Kogakuria (nyumba staff) and two days exploring the northwestern plains of the Serengeti Park near Kenya.

      Day 12: Saturday, July 7.
      After breakfast we packed our bags and headed for the dirt and grass airstrip on the Serengeti for our flight to Arusha in a small 13 seat plane.
      We said good-byes and thanks to Ojukwu and Mohamed who were making the journey back in the Landrovers.
      After lunch at the Cultural Heritage Center, and a stop at The Mountain Village lodge outside of Arusha, we rode to KIA Lodge at the Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha to decompress and eat before our evening flight to Amsterdam - via a brief stopover at Dar Es Salaam (on coast of Tanzania, south of Zanzibar).

      Day 13: Sunday, July 8.
      Arrived at Amsterdam Airport; said goodbye to fellow safari travelers, eat once again!, then made our connecting flights home.
      4:30 PM (local time) arrived at Logan Airport, Boston exhausted - it had been 38 hours since we left the airfield in northern Serengit - but extremely happy with our safari in Tanzania.