NOTE: finger words and phrases in dark blue are LINKS to images or webpages.



JAMBONI (Hello)   KARIBU! (Welcome!)

 

Classic Thomson Safari

Division of Wineland-Thomson Adventures, Inc.
14 Mount Auburn Street, Watertown, MA 02472

 

July 8th, 2007. After 11 eventful days in Tanzania (plus 2 additional days in flight), my companions ( Roberta and Keith) and I reluctantly returned to a hot and humid Boston. It had been winter in The United Republic of Tanzania - located below the Equator in Eastern Africa between longitude 29o and 41o East, Latitude 1o and 12o South.

Our safari was an amazing experience. For me, who barely travels outside the immediate comfort-zone of my neighborhood, it was truly an adventure. The people, culture, landscapes and wildlife of Tanzania will be remembered with my greatest affection. I hope to return to this amazing country.

Although the standard of living is very poor - Tanzania is one of the poorest countries in Africa - I met many Tanzanians who were extremely hospitable and generous in spirit.

Our guides - Ojukwu Sirikwa (of Maasai origin) and Mohamed Mbaruku (from Tanga) had great senses of humor and were easygoing and very knowledgeable about the birds, animals, and fauna we viewed. Ojukwu is an expert on the oral history of the Massai and spoke freely about the local tribes and the political and social conditions in Tanzania.

In terms of viewing wildlife, we were very fortunate.

We saw Africa's Big Five * - a term originally coined by hunters who wanted trophies from their safaris:

Elephant   (Tembo in Swahili)
Lion   (Simba)
Leopard   (Chui)
Black Rhinoceros   (Kifaru)
Cape Water Buffalo   (Nyati).

* Not to be confused with the "Little 5" which includes the Buffalo Weaver, the Ant Lion, the Leopard Tortoise, the Elephant Shrew and the Rhino Beetle; or the "Shy 5," including the porcupine, antbear (aardvark), bat-eared fox, aardwolf and meerkat! :-)

Plus Four:

Cheetah   (Duma in Swahili)
Maasai Giraffe   (Twiga)
Hippopotamus   (Kiboko)
Zebra   (Punda Milia)

 

 

MAPS:

 

Photobucketenlarge

LINKS:

  • northern Tanzania

  • Tarangire National Park

  • Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area

  • Serengeti National Park

 

 

ITINERARY:

    DAY 1: Tuesday, June 26, 2007

    7:30 PM (local time)
       depart Logan Airport, Boston on NorthWest Airlines.

    DAY 2: Wednesday, June 27

    7:40 AM (local time) (1:40 AM Boston time)
       arrived at Amsterdam International Airport.

    10:55 AM (local time) (4:55 AM Boston time)
       depart Amsterdam on KLM Airlines for Arusha, Tanazania

    7:50 PM (local time) (12:45 PM Boston time)
      arrive at Kilimanjaro Airport, south-east of Arusha.

    TOTAL: 17 hours 55 minutes (Boston to Arusha)

    9:30 PM Arrive by bus at Mountain Village Lodge
       spend overnight at this former coffee plantation.

    DAY 3 - Thursday June 28.

    Mountain Village Lodge, south-east of Arusha
    Cultural Heritage Center, (tourist shop) outside Arusha.
    Tarangire National Park
       JAMBO, JAMBO, ("Hello "in Swahili) the wake-up call
       hot towels before eating
       homemade soups and breads, fresh fruits.
       honeymooners from West Newton!!...

    7:00 AM Breakfast. Met our Thomson guides, Ojukwu and Mohamed, and other members of the safari we did not met the night before/

    • Roberta and Keith and myself
    • Tamar and Ricard from New Jersey
    • Mike from Sarasota, Flordia
    • Terry, Jane, Greg and Kathryn, from South Bend, Indiana.
    • Peter, pastor of Catholic parish in Youngtown, OH - friends of Terry etc.

    8:30 am - Orientation meeting; then packed our two Land Rovers and left the lodge.

    Drove through outskirts of Arusha and stop at Cultural Heritage Center.
    Walking and bicycle seemed to be the common mode of transportation.

    We start our safari with a scenic drive through Africa's Great Rift Valley.

    Driving west from Arusha, we pass vistas of extinct volcanoes and WaArusha postoralists tending there herds of cattle... then we turn south entering onto the rolling plains of "Maasai Steppe" with many Maasai bomas (also called ngang or manyatta - meaninng 'homestead' or 'village') and herds of cattle.
    Maasai male children are responsible for herding the wild-stock (cattle & goats); women and young girls are responsible for the household, cooking, construction and maintenance of the boma houses; men (the patriarchs) apparently do few everyday chores...


    12:00 NOOM: arrive at entrance of Tarangire National Park (map) where we had box lunch and viewed our first wild-life (Zebera) and Red & Yellow Barbet on a termite mound
    After lunch we headed down the main dirt road into the park:
    WILD-LIFE VIEWED:
    • small herd of Elephants
    • male Maasai Giraffe nibbling on the top of a small acacia tree,
    • herd of Zebra grazing alongside a herd of Wildebeest.
    Zebra and wildebeest herds often travel and graze together. the zebras graze on long grasses. The wildebeest go for the short grasses. They have a symbiotic relationship caused by an increased chance of predator detection. Wildebeest have poor eye sight and are not adept at defending themselves. Zebra, have excellent eyesight and can kick and bite ferociously.
    No two individual zebras have the exact same pattern of stripes

    • Common Ostrich
    • glimpsed our first Wart Hog and Grant's Gazelle
    • More herds of Zebra and Wildebeest
    • Baobab Tree with hole in trunk and Weaver bird-nests.
    • Head of Elephants with Mother and young nursing Elephant.
    • Another herd of nine Elephants - very close to our Land Rover.
    • (5 "Old" male Elephants - after losing the dominance of their herd, male (and Lion) elephants go off on their own)

    6:00 pm - arrive at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba ("home" in Swahili)
    • greeted by camp staff and assigned to our tents (I'm closest to dining tent)
       . each tent has 2 solar lights hanging from roof of tent.
       . its own chemical toilet, washing basin and water jar and camp shower.
    • Refresh myself with a hot water shower.
    • before entering dining tent we wipe our hands warm damp wash cloth.
    • excellent dinner with candles, sculptured napkins,
       homemade bread,delicious pumpkin soup, etc.
    • after dinner, conversation, and sunset around campfire
    • a guard, with rifle, will be on duty over-night
    • while settling in tent, heard a very distinctive lion roar,
       more roaring around 2:00 am and 5:30 am
       I thought the roars were a hoax, but I'm more likely incorrect.

    Spent two overnights at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba (staff) and two days viewing wildlife in the 1,005 sq miles park noted for vast amounts of Baobab Trees, termite mounds, and a wide variety of wild-life - especially elephants and numerous birds.

    EACH MORNING:
    • Wake up call: JAMBO, JAMBO, (Hello in Swahili) by staff-member.
       we are expected to respond in like...or with "JAMBO X 2"
    • pitcher of warm water is left on table in front of tent for morning clean-up.
    • hearty breakfast - eggs, meats, large variety of fresh fruits,
       hot & cold cereal, juices, teas & coffee.
    • select items for boxed lunch; pack Land Rover for day's wild-life viewing.

    DAY 4 - Friday, June 29.

    2nd day of wild-life viewing at Tarangire National Park.

    DAY 5 - Saturday, June 30.

    leave Tarangire National Park.
    drive through Mto-wa-Mbu (mosquite creek).
    visit Zebra Handcrapts (curio market)
    arrive at Gibb's Farm.

    We drive through Tarangire, then continue with a scenic one-hour drive through Africa's Great Rift Valley en route to the village of Mto Wa Mbu (meaning mosquito creek) halfway between Arusha and the Ngorongoro Crater... and continue through the verdant farmlands of Mbululand and onto Gibb's Farms.

    Stopped at Zebra Handicrafts, a curio market, where we purchased East African carvings and various tourist items. I purchased a Maasai Ol-lenywa fan (fly-swatter) and a few other things.

    Continued on to Gibb's Farm - a small-scale working coffee plantation with organic gardens and solar heated water.

    After lunch toured organic vegetable gardens with Gibb's guide, Honest, and later met artist-in-residence Riziki Kateya.

    Spent overnight at the farm in a cozy cottage surrounded by lush herb and flower gardens.

    DAY 6 - Sunday, July 1.

    Tour Gibb's Frarm rain forest, waterfall,
       and coffee plantation.
    Visit Ganako Secondary School, Karatu
    Enter Ngorongoro Cerservation Area.
    Afternoon of wild-life viewing on floor of Ngorongoro Crater.

    Left Gibb's Farm after a buffet breakfast (with Rick Thomson) and guided walk with Honest through the forest to waterfall, and coffee plantings, surrounding the farm.


    Stopped briefly to meet Hubert Mmbaga, Assistant Principle at the Ganako Secondary School, near the village of Karatu.

    Travelled on to entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (8,300 sq. kilometer area of geological and historical importance) and then on to Thomson Ngorongoro Nyumba set in dense acacia woodland on the Northern rim of the Ngorongoro Crater wall.

    Ngorongoro Crater (pdf) - often referred as "Africa's Garden of Eden'
    12 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and covering an area of 102 square miles of mountain forests, lush vegetation, and fresh springs surround the rim of the crater's towering walls, which top out at an elevation of 7,500 feet.
    The largest intact volcanic crater on earth, it hosts an estimated 30,000 animals on its floor, including large herds of zebra and wildebeest, buffalo, eland, hartebeest, elephant, hippo, lions, flamingoes, and the endangered black rhino.

    Spent two chilly overnights at Ngorongoro Nyumba - with hot water bottles to warm our beds.

    During the days we desended 2000 feet below our campsite onto the crater floor to view a variety of wildlife.

    DAY 7 - Monday, July 2.

    2nd day of wild-lilfe viewing on Ngorongoro Crater floor.
    Visit traditional Maasai boma (village or homestead)

    On the afternoon of our last day we visited a traditional Maasai Boma near the crater's edge. The Masai still build their homes the traditional way using cow dung and mud over a frame of sticks. They are very dark inside (only one small round window) and are sunk into the ground. Beds are made of leather cowhide.
    Mention about the ripped $5 bill...

    MAASAI SLIDESHOW
    enterhere

    DAY 8 - Tuesday, July 3.

    Leave Ngorongoro campsite - heavy fog
    Stop at Michael Crzimek mounument
    Decent into Malanja Deppression of the Great Rift Valley
    Visit Olduvai Gorge (Leakey site and museum)
    View wild-life on souther serengeti (Kopjies)

    Left Ngorongoro campsite, on a cool and very foggy morning, for Serengeti National Park via the southern edge of the crater's circumference.

    Stopped briefly at monument to Michael Grzimek - who was killed in a plane accident in 1959. Like his father, Bernhard, he contributed greatly in promoting the nature of Northern Tanzania and was befriended by the Maasai tribemen.


    enlarge


    Simple Stone Monument
    on
    Ngorogoro Crater's western ridge

    to
    PROFESSOR BERNANRD GRZZIMEK
    and
    MICHAEL GRZIMEK
    12. 4. 1934 - 10. 1. 1959
    HE GAVE ALL HE POSSESSED
    INCLUDING HIS LIFE
    FOR THE WILD ANIMALS OF AFRICA


    "... high in the plateau above Ngorongoro Crater is a simple stone monument to Michael Grzimek. With his father, Bernard, he was among the first to recognise the precious jewel that the east African reserves represent and the mortal danger they were in; together father and son fought tirelessly to save them and to inform an unsuspecting and apathetic world of the impending crisis. But those whom the gods love die young; if you listen hard enough you can hear the angel's wings, and Michael Grzimek was killed tragically at the age of 28, when his small aircraft crashed on the Serengeti Plains, perhaps after a collision with a vulture. His portrait hangs in the lodge overlooking Ngorongoro Crater, 9000 feet high in the Rift Valley escarpment; a boyish smile, teeth gleaming, eyes bright, flying scarf streaming out in the wind, his youthfulness enshrined, captured forever, age never to wither him, a young Adonis in the fields of the Lord."



    Descending from the Ngorongoro Crater Highlands into the Malanja depression we came out onto the open plains of The Great Rift Valley and enter the Serengeti Plains.


    En route we pass through Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey made some of the most important discoveries in the search for human origins. We visit a small but interesting museum at Olduvai, where we learn about the discovery and significance of the site where the history of humankind is graced back more than 1.6 million years. In addition to the relics of our human ancestor, we see fossis of vanished forms of elephants and other wildlife that shared the ancient Serengeti ecosystem with the precursors of 'Homo sapiens.'



    Drove to the south-eastern entrance of the Serengeti National Park at Naabi Hill Gate. "Serengeti" in the Maasai language means "endless plains."
    The 5,700 sq. mile expanse of grasslands and forests
    as large as the state of Connecticut
    Scattered with kopies, herds of wildebeest, zebra and elephants,
    and a great variety of wildlife, including lions and cheetahs.
    Famous for the annual migration of wildebeests and zebras.
    Kopjes (copyies) are outcroppings of ancient stone - rounded piles of boulders formed into distinctive shapes by eons of wind. They occur as archipelagos, little islands of stone punctuating the Serengeti's sea of grass, and each has a very different character. Lions (and other predators) greatly favor kopjes as daytime resting places.

    We spent two overnights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Robanda

    DAY 9 - Wednesday July 4

    Full day of wild-life viewing on southern
       and central areas of Serengeti:
        • Hippo Pool
        • Lunch at Seronera Visitor Center in Central Serengeti.

    DAY 10 - Thursday July 5

    Leave Nyumba at Robanda;
       drive north along western edge of Serengeti Park.
    Stop for fuel at filling station in Mugumu
    Travel to north-western gate of Serengeti Park.
    Wild-life viewing in northern Serengeti near Kenya.
    Cross Mara River.
    Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria.

    Drove northwest outside Serengeti National Park.

    Stopped for fuel at the Panju Marwa Fiilling Station in Mugumu.

    Travel dirt road to Lemai Guard Post (northwest gate to Serengeti NP) by Mara River.

    Spent two nights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria and two days exploring the northwestern plains of the Serengeti Park.

    DAY 11 - Friday, July 6.

    2nd day of wild-life viewing on northern Serengeti
      • cross Mara River
      • off-trail wild-life viewing and lunch with lions.


      • visit border of Tanzania and Kenya.

    Serengeti
    The Serengeti ~ the place where the land runs on forever...

    DAY 12 - Saturday, July 7.

    Leave Thomson Nyumba at Kogakuria
    Airplane ride to Arusha Airport from Lemai Guard Post.
    En route, pick up injured boy and his mother
    Lunch at Cultural Heritage Center in Arusha
    Relax at KIA Lodge at Kilimanjaro Airport, east of Arusha
    Flight to Amsterdam International Airport

    After breakfast we packed our bags and headed for the dirt and grass airstrip on the Serengeti (next to Lemai Guard Post) for our flight to Arusha in a small 13 seat plane.

    We said good-byes and thanks to Ojukwu and Mohamed who were making the journey back in the Land Rovers.

    Fly over Thomson Nyumba at Robanda; Stop at campsite in Fort Ikoma to pick up a young man with smashed teeth and his mother.

    Fly over the volcano Oldoinyo Lengai. . .

    After lunch at the Cultural Heritage Center, and a stop at The Mountain Village lodge outside of Arusha, we rode to KIA Lodge at the Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha to decompress and eat before our evening flight to Amsterdam - via a brief stopover at Dar Es Salaam (on coast of Tanzania, south of Zanzibar).

    DAY 13 - Sunday, July 8

    Arrive at Amsterdam International Airport
    Goodbyes to fellow safari travelers
    4:30 PM (Boston time)
       Arrive at Logan Airport, Boston, MA, USA

    38 hourse since leaving norht Serengeti airfield

    Arrived at Amsterdam Airport; said goodbye to fellow safari travelers, eat once again!, then made our connecting flights home.

    4:30 PM (Boston time) arrived at Logan Airport, Boston exhausted.
    it had been 38 hours since we left the airfield in northern Serengeti
    but extremely happy with our safari experience in Tanzania.

     

            Tutaonana (We'll see each other again)

    Scattergood        
               

     

     

    rino

     

     

     

     

     

     WILD-LIFE SLIDESHOW      

     

    top

     

     

    SELECTED WILD-LIFE:

    MAMMALS:   • Antelopes (Swala in Swahili) • Olive BaboonsCheetah (Duma) [ 2 ] • Kirk's Dik Diks (stock photo) • Elephant (Tembo in Swahili) [ 2 | 3 | Keith ] • Gazelle (Swala): Grant's Gazelle & Thomson's GazelleMaasai Giraffe (Twiga) [ 2 | detail | Keith ] • Hippopotamus (Kiboko) [ 2 | Keith | Keith2 ] • Cokes Harebeest • Hyena (Fisi) • Rock Hyrax & Tree Hyrax (the closest genetic relatives to elephants!) • ImpalasJackals [ 2 ] • Klipspringers Leopard (Chui) [ detail ] • Lion (Simba) [ 2 | Keith ] • Beisa OryxBlack Rhinoceros (Kifaru) [ 2 ] • TopiBlack-Faced Vervet Monkeys aka Blue-ball Monkey [ 2 | 3 ] • Wart HogsWaterbuckCape Water Buffalo (Nyati) • Wildebeest [ 2 ] • Zebra (Punda Milia) [ 2 ]

    REPTILES: • a dead Forest Cobra • Nile Crocodiles (Mamba) • Common Household Geckos • Agama Lizards • a Leopard Tortoise • and an unidentified frog (maybe the Sharp Nosed Grass Frog) which lived on the lid of my portable Nyumbia toilet. • Thankfully we did not encounter any Black Mamba!!.

    BIRDS:Red and Yellow BarbetBee-eatersKori BustardsGrey-crowned CranesDiederik CuckooEagles • Egrets • Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Finch (stock photo) • Greater Flamingos (stock photo) • Egyptian GeeseHelmeted Guinea-fowl [ detail ] • Herons - Von der Decken's Hornbill & Red-billed hornbillSacred Ibis (Kwarara in Swahili) [ 2 ] • Malchite Kingfisher ( stock photo ) • Pied Kingfishers - Larks - Common Ostrich (Mbuni) • Blacksmith Plover • Lilac-Breasted Roller [ stock photo ] • Secretary BirdsShrikesSuperb Starlings [ more ] • Marabou StockYellow-billed Stocks • Swallows • Vultures • Weavers: Parasitic Weaver (aka Cuckoo Finch).
    NOTE: More of my bird photographs are online at The Tanzania Bird Atlas Project


    INSECTS: • Fire ants • Termite moundsTsetse Flies | more | Africa: tsetse infested areas • etc. • but sadly no Dung Beetles (especially Onthophagus rangifer males from Tanzania)! - this was one creature of eastern Afica I most wanted to observe in his natural environment. [ more ].

    I took pictures with a Sony A100 Digital Camera with a 18.mm - 200mm Zoom using the "automatic" mode - because I lost the instruction manual on the first night in Tanzania!

    NOTE:   Photogrpahs linked to this page are
    by Scattergood, unless indicated otherwise.

     

     

     

    ASANTE SANA

     

    THOMSON SAFARI
    logo
    Watertown, Massachusetts USA

     

     

    Looking for a wife
    Scatt, one dinner, one question
    Safari Next year?


    Haku by Heather

     

    ROBERTA PAUL'S TANZANIAN SKETCHBOOK
                                           open publication

    Sketchbook Filmstrip | Artists Sketchbooks Online

     

    return to page 1      

     

    updated: 05-07-09

     

     

    Heri kujikwa kidole kuliko ulimi . . . Better to stumble with the toe than with the tongue.     ~     Maasai Proverb    

     


     

     

    SELECTED LINKS & SOUND FILES:

     

     

    my photographs online:

      • freewebs.com

      • iprintfromhome.com

      • myopera.com

      • Panoramio - photos by tanzafari

      • photobucket | all

      • Picasa Web Albums - scatt

      • tanzania bird atlas

      • tanzafari on deviantART

     

    sound (mp3) files:


    Jambo by Teddy Kalanda Harrison


      • Swahili for Beginners | Swahili Songs

      • Babu Bibi (MP3 file)

      • Tsetse Fly | about | flies


    Malaika, nakupenda Malaika
    a love song in Swahili from Tanzania
    written by
    Kenyan composer Fadhili Williams
    sung by
    Miriam Makeba
    also by
    Miriam Makeba & Harry Belafonte


    www.wenyewe.com - mp3 downloads from Tanzania

     

    Scattergood-Moore Drawings

     

    general information:

      • Living Swahili Dictionary

      • Proverbs / Methali

     

     


     

     

     

    current events:

      • Living Swahili Dictionary

      • Proverbs / Methali

      • Lion Guardians   WildlifeDirect

      • Volcano Discovery

      • The Oldoinyo Lengai web site | images | QT movie

      • Ol Doinyo Lengai ~ The Mountain of God

      • 3 photos of Oldoinyo Lengai: 1 | 2 | 3

      • 1998 report on Pastoral development intervention (PDF)

      • NGM: Heartbreak on the Serengeti

      • The Boston Globe (05-03-09) No Natives Allowed
        &$149; Reader Comments

      • Mara Triangle - Maasai Villages Association
        • Kisaru Maasai Community Project
        • Long drop toilet construction at Oloosinon

      • Map of Tanzania between Lake Natron & Serengeti NP.

      • Africa & The MIddle East Forum

      • Trent Keegan Photographer 1974-2008

      • African Framer's Journal (11-03-08)

      • Tribute to Trent Keegan | photo

      • The African Safari Forum  

      • Letter from UN High Commissioner for Human Rights