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SCATTERGOOD RETURNS FROM SAFARI IN TANZANIA

It isn't very often a teacher is acknowledged by his or her colleagues with the opportunity to go on safari. I was fortunate enough to be such a person. When I resigned in the Spring of 2006, after 38 years of teaching, my Dana Hall colleagues selected me to go on a safari for two in Tanzania. I am extremely grateful to everyone who made this incredible experience - a trip of a lifetime - possible. ASANTE SANA!   Scattergood aka "Babu"

Thumbs-up from hollow baoba tree Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

JAMBONI (Hello)   KARIBU! (Welcome!)

July 8th, 2007. After 11 eventful days in Tanzania (plus 2 additional days in flight), my companions ( Roberta and Keith) and I reluctantly returned to a hot and humid Boston. It had been winter in The United Republic of Tanzania - located below the Equator in Eastern Africa between longitude 29^o and 41^o East, Latitude 1^o and 12^o South.

Our safari was an amazing experience. For me, who barely travels outside the immediate comfort-zone of my neighborhood, it was truly an adventure. The people, culture, landscapes and wildlife of Tanzania will be remembered with my greatest affection. I hope to return to this amazing country.

Although the standard of living is very poor - Tanzania is one of the poorest countries in Africa - I met many Tanzanians who were extremely hospitable and generous in spirit.

Our Thomson Safari guides - Ojukwu Sirikwa (of Maasai origin) and Mohamed Mbaruku (from Tanga) had great senses of humor and were easygoing and very knowledgeable about the birds, animals, and fauna we viewed. Ojukwu is an expert on the oral history of the Massai and spoke freely about the local tribes and the political and social conditions in Tanzania.

In terms of viewing wildlife, we were very fortunate.   We saw Africa's Big Five - a term originally coined by hunters who wanted trophies from their safaris:
• Elephant   (Tembo in Swahili)
• Lion   (Simba)
• Leopard   (Chui)
• Black Rhinoceros   (Kifaru)
• Cape Water Buffalo   (Nyati).
Plus Four:
• Cheetah   (Duma in Swahili)
• Maasai Giraffe   (Twiga)
• Hippopotamus   (Kiboko)
• Zebra   (Punda Milia)

ITINERARY:         notes from Alumnae Weekend slideshow

DAY 1: Tuesday, June 26, 2007

• 7:30 PM (local time)
   depart Logan Airport, Boston on NorthWest Airlines.

DAY 2: Wednesday, June 27

• 7:40 AM (local time) (1:40 AM Boston time)
   arrived at Amsterdam International Airport.

• 10:55 AM (local time) (4:55 AM Boston time)
   depart Amsterdam on KLM Airlines for Arusha, Tanazania

• 7:50 PM (local time) (12:45 PM Boston time)
  arrive at Kilimanjaro Airport, south-east of Arusha.

• TOTAL: 17 hours 55 minutes (Boston to Arusha)

• 9:30 PM Arrive by bus at Mountain Village Lodge
   spend overnight at this former coffee plantation.

DAY 3 - Thursday June 28.

• Mountain Village Lodge, south-east of Arusha
• Cultural Heritage Center, (tourist shop) outside Arusha.
• Tarangire National Park
   JAMBO, JAMBO, ("Hello "in Swahili) the wake-up call
   hot towels before eating
   homemade soups and breads, fresh fruits.
   honeymooners from West Newton!!...

7:00 AM Breakfast. Met our Thomson guides, Ojukwu and Mohamed, and other members of the safari we did not met the night before/

• Roberta and Keith and myself
• Tamar and Ricard from New Jersey
• Mike from Sarasota, Flordia
• Terry, Jane, Greg and Kathryn, from South Bend, Indiana.
• Peter, pastor of Catholic parish in Youngtown, OH - friends of Terry etc.

8:30 am - Orientation meeting; then packed our two Land Rovers and left the lodge.

Drove through outskirts of Arusha and stop at Cultural Heritage Center.
Walking and bicycle seemed to be the common mode of transportation.


We start our safari with a scenic drive through Africa's Great Rift Valley.

Driving west from Arusha, we pass vistas of extinct volcanoes and WaArusha postoralists tending there herds of cattle... then we turn south entering onto the rolling plains of "Maasai Steppe" with many Maasai bomas (also called ngang or manyatta - meaninng 'homestead' or 'village') and herds of cattle.
Maasai male children are responsible for herding the wild-stock (cattle & goats); women and young girls are responsible for the household, cooking, construction and maintenance of the boma houses; men (the patriarchs) apparently do few everyday chores...
12:00 NOOM: arrive at entrance of Tarangire National Park where we had box lunch and viewed our first wild-life (Zebera) and Red & Yellow Barbet on a termite mound
After lunch we headed down the main dirt road into the park:
WILD-LIFE VIEWED:
• small herd of Elephants
• male Maasai Giraffe nibbling on the top of a small acacia tree,
• herd of Zebra grazing alongside a herd of Wildebeest.
Zebra and wildebeest herds often travel and graze together. the zebras graze on long grasses. The wildebeest go for the short grasses. They have a symbiotic relationship caused by an increased chance of predator detection. Wildebeest have poor eye sight and are not adept at defending themselves. Zebra, have excellent eyesight and can kick and bite ferociously.
No two individual zebras have the exact same pattern of stripes

• Common Ostrich
• glimpsed our first Wart Hog and Grant's Gazelle
• More herds of Zebra and Wildebeest
• Baobab Tree with hole in trunk and Weaver bird-nests.
• Head of Elephants with Mother and young nursing Elephant.
• Another herd of nine Elephants - very close to our Land Rover.
• (5 "Old" male Elephants - after losing the dominance of their herd, male (and Lion) elephants go off on their own)

6:00 pm - arrive at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba ("home" in Swahili)
• greeted by camp staff and assigned to our tents (I'm closest to dining tent)
   . each tent has 2 solar lights hanging from roof of tent.
   . its own chemical toilet, washing basin and water jar and camp shower.
• Refresh myself with a hot water shower.
• before entering dining tent we wipe our hands warm damp wash cloth.
• excellent dinner with candles, sculptured napkins,
   homemade bread,delicious pumpkin soup, etc.
• after dinner, conversation, and sunset around campfire
• a guard, with rifle, will be on duty over-night
• while settling in tent, heard a very distinctive lion roar,
   more roaring around 2:00 am and 5:30 am
   I thought the roars were a hoax, but I'm more likely incorrect.

Spent two overnights at Thomson Tarangire Nyumba (staff) and two days viewing wildlife in the 1,005 sq miles park noted for vast amounts of Baobab Trees, termite mounds, and a wide variety of wild-life - especially elephants and numerous birds.

EACH MORNING:
• Wake up call: JAMBO, JAMBO, (Hello in Swahili) by staff-member.
   we are expected to respond in like...or with "JAMBO X 2"
• pitcher of warm water is left on table in front of tent for morning clean-up.
• hearty breakfast - eggs, meats, large variety of fresh fruits,
   hot & cold cereal, juices, teas & coffee.
• select items for boxed lunch; pack Land Rover for day's wild-life viewing.

DAY 4 - Friday, June 29.

• 2nd day of wild-life viewing at Tarangire National Park.

DAY 5 - Saturday, June 30.

• leave Tarangire National Park.
• drive through Mto-wa-Mbu (mosquite creek).
• visit Zebra Handcrapts (curio market)
• arrive at Gibb's Farm.

We drive through Tarangire, then continue with a scenic one-hour drive through Africa's Great Rift Valley en route to the village of Mto Wa Mbu (meaning mosquito creek) halfway between Arusha and the Ngorongoro Crater... and continue through the verdant farmlands of Mbululand and onto Gibb's Farms.

Stopped at Zebra Handicrafts, a curio market, where we purchased East African carvings and various tourist items. I purchased a Maasai Ol-lenywa fan (fly-swatter) and a few other things.

Continued on to Gibb's Farm - a small-scale working coffee plantation with organic gardens and solar heated water.

After lunch toured organic vegetable gardens with Gibb's guide, Honest, and later met artist-in-residence Riziki Kateya.

Spent overnight at the farm in a cozy cottage surrounded by lush herb and flower gardens.

DAY 6 - Sunday, July 1.

• Tour Gibb's Frarm rain forest, waterfall,
   and coffee plantation.
• Visit Ganako Secondary School, Karatu
• Enter Ngorongoro Cerservation Area.
• Afternoon of wild-life viewing on floor of Ngorongoro Crater.

Left Gibb's Farm after a buffet breakfast (with Rick Thomson) and guided walk with Honest through the forest to waterfall, and coffee plantings, surrounding the farm.

Stopped briefly to meet Hubert Mmbaga, Assistant Principle at the Ganako Secondary School, near the village of Karatu.

Travelled on to entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (8,300 sq. kilometer area of geological and historical importance) and then on to Thomson Ngorongoro Nyumba set in dense acacia woodland on the Northern rim of the Ngorongoro Crater wall.

Ngorongoro Crater - often referred as "Africa's Garden of Eden'
12 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and covering an area of 102 square miles of mountain forests, lush vegetation, and fresh springs surround the rim of the crater's towering walls, which top out at an elevation of 7,500 feet.
The largest intact volcanic crater on earth, it hosts an estimated 30,000 animals on its floor, including large herds of zebra and wildebeest, buffalo, eland, hartebeest, elephant, hippo, lions, flamingoes, and the endangered black rhino.

Spent two chilly overnights at Ngorongoro Nyumba - with hot water bottles to warm our beds.

During the days we desended 2000 feet below our campsite onto the crater floor to view a variety of wildlife.

DAY 7 - Monday, July 2.

• 2nd day of wild-lilfe viewing on Ngorongoro Crater floor.
• Visit traditional Maasai boma (village or homestead)

On the afternoon of our last day we visited a traditional Maasai Boma near the crater's edge. The Masai still build their homes the traditional way using cow dung and mud over a frame of sticks. They are very dark inside (only one small round window) and are sunk into the ground. Beds are made of leather cowhide.
Mention about the ripped $5 bill...

DAY 8 - Tuesday, July 3.

• Leave Ngorongoro campsite - heavy fog
• Stop at Michael Crzimek mounument
• Decent into Malanja Deppression of the Great Rift Valley
• Visit Olduvai Gorge (Leakey site and museum)
• View wild-life on souther serengeti (Kopjies)

Left Ngorongoro campsite, on a cool and very foggy morning, for Serengeti National Park via the southern edge of the crater's circumference.

Stopped briefly at monument to Michael Grzimek (killed in a plane accident in Ngorongoro in 1959) - who with his his father, the German professor, Bernhard Grzime, contributed greatly in promoting the nature of Northern Tanzania.

Descending from the Ngorongoro Crater Highlands into the Malanja depression we came out onto the open plains of The Great Rift Valley and enter the Serengeti Plains.



En route we pass through Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey made some of the most important discoveries in the search for human origins. We visit a small but interesting museum at Olduvai, where we learn about the discovery and significance of the site where the history of humankind is graced back more than 1.6 million years. In addition to the relics of our human ancestor, we see fossis of vanished forms of elephants and other wildlife that shared the ancient Serengeti ecosystem with the precursors of 'Homo sapiens.'


Drove on to the south-eastern entrance of the Serengeti National Park.

"Serengeti" in the Maasai language means "endless plains."
The 5,700 sq. mile expanse of grasslands and forests
as large as the state of Connecticut
Scattered with kopies, herds of wildebeest, zebra and elephants,
and a great variety of wildlife, including lions and cheetahs.
Famous for the annual migration of wildebeests and zebras.

Kopjes (copyies) are outcroppings of ancient stone - rounded piles of boulders formed into distinctive shapes by eons of wind. They occur as archipelagos, little islands of stone punctuating the Serengeti's sea of grass, and each has a very different character. Lions (and other predators) greatly favor kopjes as daytime resting places.

We spent two overnights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Robanda

DAY 9 - Wednesday July 4

• Full day of wild-life viewing on southern
   and central areas of Serengeti:
    • Hippo Pool
    • Lunch at Seronera Visitor Center in Central Serengeti.

DAY 10 - Thursday July 5

• Leave Nyumba at Robanda; • Stop for fuel at filling station in Mugumu
• Travel to north-western gate of Serengeti Park.
• Wild-life viewing in northern Serengeti near Kenya.
• Cross Mara River.
• Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria.

Drove northwest outside Serengeti National Park.

Stopped for fuel at the Panju Marwa Fiilling Station in Mugumu.

Spent two nights at the Thomson Serengeti Nyumba at Kogakuria and two days exploring the northwestern plains of the Serengeti Park.

DAY 11 - Friday, July 6.

• 2nd day of wild-life viewing on northern Serengeti
  • cross Mara River
  • off-trail wild-life viewing and lunch with lions.
  • visit border of Tanzania and Kenya.

DAY 12 - Saturday, July 7.

• Leave Thomson Nyumba at Kogakuria
• Airplane ride to Arusha Airport.
• En route, pick up injured boy and his mother
• Lunch at Cultural Heritage Center in Arusha
• Relax at KIA Lodge at Kilimanjaro Airport, east of Arusha
• Flight to Amsterdam International Airport

After breakfast we packed our bags and headed for the dirt and grass airstrip on the Serengeti for our flight to Arusha in a small 13 seat plane.

We said good-byes and thanks to Ojukwu and Mohamed who were making the journey back in the Land Rovers.

After lunch at the Cultural Heritage Center, and a stop at The Mountain Village lodge outside of Arusha, we rode to KIA Lodge at the Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha to decompress and eat before our evening flight to Amsterdam - via a brief stopover at Dar Es Salaam (on coast of Tanzania, south of Zanzibar).

DAY 13 - Sunday, July 8

• Arrive at Amsterdam International Airport
• Goodbyes to fellow safari travelers
• 4:30 PM (Boston time)
   Arrive at Logan Airport, Boston, MA, USA

38 hourse since leaving norht Serengeti airfield

Arrived at Amsterdam Airport; said goodbye to fellow safari travelers, eat once again!, then made our connecting flights home.

4:30 PM (Boston time) arrived at Logan Airport, Boston exhausted.
it had been 38 hours since we left the airfield in northern Serengeti
but extremely happy with our safari experience in Tanzania.

 

        Tutaonana (We'll see each other again)

Scattergood        

[Self Portrait]            

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

SELECTED WILD-LIFE:

 

MAMMALS:: • Antelopes (Swala in Swahili) • Olive Baboons • Cheetah (Duma) [ 2 ] • Kirk's Dik Diks (stock photo) • Elephant (Tembo in Swahili) [ 2 | 3 | Keith ] • Gazelle (Swala): Grant's Gazelle & Thomson's Gazelle • Maasai Giraffe (Twiga) [ 2 | detail | Keith ] • Hippopotamus (Kiboko) [ 2 | Keith | Keith2 ] • Cokes Harebeest • Hyena (Fisi) • Rock Hyrax & Tree Hyrax (the closest genetic relatives to elephants!) • Impalas • Jackals [ 2 ] • Klipspringers • Leopard (Chui) [ detail ] • Lion (Simba) [ 2 | Keith ] • Beisa Oryx • Black Rhinoceros (Kifaru) [ 2 ] • Topi • Black-Faced Vervet Monkeys aka Blue-ball Monkey [ 2 | 3 ] • Wart Hogs • Waterbuck • Cape Water Buffalo (Nyati) • Wildebeest [ 2 ] • Zebra (Punda Milia) [ 2 ]

REPTILES: • a dead Forest Cobra • Nile Crocodiles (Mamba) • Common Household Geckos • Agama Lizards • a Leopard Tortoise • and an unidentified frog (maybe the Sharp Nosed Grass Frog) which lived on the lid of my portable Nyumbia toilet. • Thankfully we did not encounter any Black Mamba!!.

BIRDS: • Red and Yellow Barbet • Bee-eaters • Kori Bustards • Grey-crowned Cranes • Diederik Cuckoo • Eagles • Egrets • Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Finch (stock photo) • Greater Flamingos (stock photo) • Egyptian Geese • Helmeted Guinea-fowl [ detail ] • Herons - Von der Decken's Hornbill & Red-billed hornbill • Sacred Ibis (Kwarara in Swahili) [ 2 ] • Malchite Kingfisher ( stock photo ) • Pied Kingfishers - Larks - Common Ostrich (Mbuni) • Blacksmith Plover • Lilac-Breasted Roller [ stock photo ] • Secretary Birds • Shrikes • Superb Starlings [ more ] • Marabou Stock • Yellow-billed Stocks • Swallows • Vultures • Weavers: Parasitic Weaver (aka Cuckoo Finch).
NOTE: More of my bird photographs are online at The Tanzania Bird Atlas Project


INSECTS: • Fire ants • Termite mounds • Tsetse Flies • etc. • but sadly no Dung Beetles (especially Onthophagus rangifer males from Tanzania)! - this was one creature of eastern Afica I most wanted to observe in his natural environment. [ more ].

I took pictures with a Sony A100 Digital Camera with a 18.mm - 200mm Zoom using the "automatic" mode - because I lost the instruction manual on the first night in Tanzania!

NOTE:   Photogrpahs linked to this page are
by Scattergood, unless indicated otherwise.

 

 

 

I have photographs (many duplicates) online at:
  . freewebs.com
  . iprintfromhome.com
  . myopera.com
  . panraven journaling
  . photobucket | all
  . tanzania bird atlas

 

 

 

 

THOMSON SAFARI

Watertown, Massachusetts USA

 


Photograph by Andy Biggs courtesy Thomson Safaris

When adventure-travel power-couple Rick Thomson and Judi Wineland established the first U.S. company licensed to run safaris in Tanzania 26 years ago, they set the bar high for the outfitters that would follow in their 4x4 tracks. For example, many of Thomson's Tanzania-born guides have been with the company since it started. A safari with this outfitter remains focused on exceptional wildlife encounters, but their deep friendship with local people is a big plus--expect to be warmly welcomed in villages, schools, and homes along the way.


Adventure Travel Ratings
National Geographic Adventure Magazine

 

 

• SELECTED LINKS •

 

 

Looking for a wife
Scatt, one dinner, one question
Safari Next year?

Haku by Heather

 



Roberta's Tanzanian Sketchbook

SKETCHBOOK FILMSTRIP

Artists Sketchbooks Online

 

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updated: 06-15-08